Here are the build notes and list of materials I used in my to make my mask. Unlike my other builds I didn’t take any pictures of the process, only the finished object. I may make another at some point and add them up, but for now there are some good reference images here: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30013368

Note that while I’ve done some research to try and get the size and shape as close as possible to the historic masks, I’ve made a few changes to mine. It’s wouldn’t take much to alter the build to make it more historically correct. On the other side it would also make a cool post-apocalypse mask with a few additions.

Feel free to swap out materials when making your own, though bare in mind the materials will have to hold the weight of the mask
and chain on the front. If you’re not using metal, swap out the rivets for alternatives such as plastic rivets or make your own
from some rod. You might also want to buy some d-rings rather than make them.

Materials
Front and back plates and nose – 1mm Aluminium
Material – Faux leather and suede. Make sure it’s not thicker than 1mm and has a bit of stretch to it for forming the nose.
D-rings – 1mm aluminum with rings made from 2mm steel rod/wire
Rivets – 3mm diameter x 6mm L domed head aluminium
2 strips of material around 45cm, longer depending on head size to hold the mask in place. I used linen for mine which was too
thin, so I recommend something thicker.
Some 1.2mm wire for the loop to hold the chain to the mask.
Around 500 8mm outer diameter 1mm stainless steel rings.

Construction notes

These note how I constructed my mask and accompany the templates which can be found on my etsy store page.

  1. Use the front and back plate templates to cut out 1 piece of metal and 1 piece of fabric for each – cut a little extra fabric around
    the edges. Note that the front plate is sightly larger for when the plates are curved later.
  2. Cut out 1 nose section from metal.
  3. Cut out the vision slits and drill rivet holes on the back plate.
  4. Cut out the eye holes on the front plate and drill the holes for the ring loops.
  5. Form the nose guard to fit your face – I hammered mine into shape. This doesn’t need to fully fit the shape of your nose so don’t
    make it too deep; otherwise the chain will hang directly on your skin. Make sure to leave a lip around the edge, this will be used
    to hold it in place.
  6. Curve the front and back plates to fit your face. You will also want to sandwich the nose guard in between to test the fit.
    There should be some extra material around the front plate – when you’re happy with the fit, cut/file this off. Clamping will help. Lastly using the rivet hole on the back plate, drill through to the front plate.
  7. Glue the nose plate to the front plate so the lip will lay between both plates.
  8. Glue the faux leather in place over the front plate and nose guard. Leave some extra to fold over the edge and eye holes; this can be glued or left loose. Make sure to not pull it right over the edge – leave a 1mm gap. Poke through the rivet holes.
  9. Glue the faux suede onto the back plate and fold around the outer edges. Make sure to not pull it right over the edge – leave a 1mm gap. Leave the material laying over the gap for the nose
    guard. Poke through the rivet holes.
  10. Make the d-rings by bending the wire into shape. Cut out 2 d-ring attachments and drill the holes. Line these up with the rivet holes and work out where the d-rings will lay. Fold the metal over the d-ring to form a tube that holds it in place with a hammer or pliers. Cut of any extra metal.
  11. Make 8 ring loops to hold the chainmaile – form a U shape and push these through the holes in the front. Work out how far you want them to stick out from the front of the mask (say 2-3mm), then fold over the ends to help hold them in place.
  12. Place both halves together with the material between them and clamp. Make sure both halves are close together. Press the material on the back plate into the nose guard and glue in place, then cut off any extra.
  13. Put the d-rings in place and rivet – the dome of the rivet should be on the front. Make sure the rivets are set well so there is no gap between the 2 halves. The tight fit will hold everything in place and make a very sturdy mask.
  14. Make a rectangle of 4 in 1 mail to hang on the front. It should be as wide as the mask and hang from the loops on the front to just below your chin. Details on constructing the maile can be found here
  15. Attach the maile to the loops on the front with 8 more rings. Make a short chain of two rings attached to the d-ring and connect to the 2 top corners of the mail to stop it sagging.
  16. The mask is done at this point but you may want to add some weathering to the material and metal using paint and sand paper.

Published by drthraxaplaxis