Or Agitated Laser Pistol to be exact.

The idea to create another Fallout build came about when I decided to take a step back from Gorehowl  for a bit, due to problems with filling and sanding. Since I had a 3 week time limit to complete it I wanted to make something small that wouldn’t take too much time, then I would go back to the axe more motivated to finish it. As this would be a quick build it wouldn’t light up and would only have few moving parts..

The original plan was to make the fallout 3 laser pistol and purchase the blueprint from Volpin Props, which I had looked at a while ago. When I came to look at it though I decided that I now didn’t like it! What about Fallout 4? I did a search and came across this build by Franco 358 on Tested. This was really good inspiration, that and he also used one of my favorite materials – foam pvc or Foamex.

New project clean work bench

Since the reference image he had was so good and the fact that the gun is boxy I decided to have a go at making it without a blueprint…I would later make some templates using the image. This was scaled to my hand size and was used to take measurements from. I also took screenshots of the pistol from different angles in game to get the side and top details. While there I had a play with the various mods for the pistol before settling on the Agitated Laser Pistol. This had a different grip and from the image along with no scope.  I have created a blue print using the reference images which is available on my Etsy store here.

I started out the the main body of the pistol and then began adding details to it.

I began by drawing out the main body of the pistol

The first parts were the side panels with the 2 channels in them. These were done using a cone shaped bit on my Dremmel. I later learned that an easier way to do this would have been to use the sanding drum. Another thing learned.More parts were added to the top, sides and bottom. 20160812_170553At this stage I began rounding some of the edges using files and sandpaper. The 2 prongs on the front were there to help hold the muzzle in place. Something I learned from the laser rifle build was to cut a hole for the ejection mechanism before I assembling the box.



The mechanism which I wanted to move, started as a box made from 0.2mm styrene and a piece of plastic rod. I would then attach the handle to the rod adding some metal pins to make sure it was secure. When dry it was slotted into place and was covered with a styrene plate.


The yellow is the filler I use

Finally the rails on the top were added to complete the body of the pistol.


With that done, I moved on to another part – the front grip and muzzle. The grip was made from layered Foamex with further strips heat formed around it. The same was done with some styrene to form the inner part of the muzzle. The outer case was simply a box with rounded edges. The right top edge was filed to a flat slope. This was also done on the tube that was added to form a better connection. This was a lot better as on the rifle build this was always falling off :-/ I put some milliput on the inside and pressed a 1cm drill bit into it to form the curves. When this had dried it was sanded an styrene strips  were added.

You know with a few legs this would make a cool insectoid robot …


The under support bar and trigger were all made from foamex, The large center hole was made by first drilling a hole and cutting it out with a scroll saw. The same was done with the three holes in the trigger.The side that would butt up against the fore grip was rounded to match. The handle was made of several layers with a gap left in the middle one for the  trigger to slot into. Since the material is quite soft I used a rasp to quickly form the handle and the add the groves using a Dremmel sanding drum. It was then all sanded smooth using different grit sandpapers.


The bottom section of the handle was made using a similar method. To make the holes for the rings to slot into  I tried something I had been told about a few months ago;  put a milling bit into a drill press. This worked really well and I was able to create the same depth hole on both sides. I’m not sure where the ring I used came from, but since I only had 1 and it would also work for the ring on the front grip I molded and cast it. A piece of foamex was then pressed in the center of the side rings to complete it.

20160815_165347Previously I had made the energy cell from plastic rod and then lathed it to shape. The only down side to was the weight, so this time the center section was made from PVC tube. Foamex caps were added to either end and the whole thing then went on the lathe. Another ring was added to the top of the cell along with some foamex pieces. These were then filed to shape after being attached to make it easier. Since this was the easiest part to paint it became the first finished part of the rifle. The text and symbols were added using printable waterslide transfer paper.

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The box for the back section had many layers and was made in several parts.  For some small knob..reason I didn’t take any pictures of this except the knob. this was created from a large base disc with a smaller one glued to the center. I then used filler to create the slope. A crew was added to the top and styrene grips around the side – these were the filed to shape


With this done I slotted the pistol together, filled any gaps and added any last details.


It had a basecoat of dark green spray which was masked off when dry and the metal parts sprayed chocolate brown. The metal sections were drybrushed silver with few light brushes of bronze.Any light green sections were painted with a ‘camo’ green. Stencils were then used along with yellow spray to add the details.To weather I first used used watered down Bunt Umber by its self, then mixed with black. I also decided to try some weathering powders I brought years ago for miniature painting . These  worked pretty well and blended all of the weathering together to create an effect I’m really happy with. I think I’ll be using them again.